Iguana Basics

By Denise Batson

This is meant as a guideline only, please check out the links listed in the text for more in-depth studies and care.

The first thing to consider when getting an iguana is are you going to have the space to be able to provide a large cage?  Iguanas require a 6'H x 5'W x 3'D, that is a very large cage.  Iguanas when cared for properly have the potential to get to lengths of 6-7 feet.  They can be hard to handle and extremely dangerous, inflicting serious bites and tail whips.  They have to have a specialized diet, proper UVB and you must have the time to care and socialize your iguana.  I say socialize because iguanas are never truly tame.  They have not been tamed for hundreds of years like cats and dogs have.  This is allot to consider for what America considers and $10 throw away pet.  After reading this if you still want an iguana, please check your local rescue before buying that cute little lizard you saw at the pet store, you will not only get a healthier animal but one that has been at least semi-socialized.  Our rescues are not perfect, some have missing toenails or toes, some may have long term effects of MBD (metabolic bone disease).  Even though they are not perfect they need you very much.

Habitat Setups

Once you have a suitable size cage (see above), you are going to need to set it up so that your new iguana will survive and thrive.  Use newspaper, butcher paper, indoor/outdoor carpet, paper towels...anything that is not considered a loose substrate (stuff on the bottom).  Cacti sand, bed-a-beast, bark chips are all deadly to your new iguana, they can cause serious medical issues and impaction.  You will need a basking shelf for your iguana.  I set mine up so that they can be adjusted to the uvb lighting.  And that is one of the most important things for your setup, your UVB.  I recommend either reptisun 5.0 or iguana light 5.0 or better if you decide to use tubes.  Personally I prefer Megaray EB, there are different opinions on this, mine is not the only one.  If you use tubes, they should be set at 6-8" above your iguanas back, if you decide to use the Megaray, they should be set at 16-18" above the iguanas back.  You will also need some climbing things in your habitat so that your iguana can get exercise.  To view some examples of habitats go here.

Diet

Your iguana is a vegetarian and should never be fed animal protein of any kind.  There are several good diets out there to follow, click here for the one I use.  This is the diet I feed my iguanas.  

Collards, Mustard Greens, Turnip Greens, a small amount of mixed baby greens, topped with grated butternut squash and grated sweet potato, and I add about 1 tablespoon of soaked repcal pellets for hydration.  I never feed my iguanas a diet of straight commercial foods, they do not provide what the iguana needs.  A diet high in leafy greens is the best.  I feed mostly collards, the turnip and mustard greens are added for extra nutrition and flavor as the mixed baby greens.  Fruit can be given a couple of times a week as a treat.  My kids get figs, peaches, occasional strawberries, banana and grapes...not all at one time though, usually one or two of the listed in a week.

Socializing and Cleanliness

Most iguanas that come from a pet store are extremely wild and have never been handled very little if at all.  It takes time to calm them.  It could be as little as three months up to over a year.  Handling your iguana daily for 20 minutes at a time two to three times a day will help with the socializing.  Bathing is also a help with socializing.  All of my iguanas get a daily soaking for about 20 minutes each.  After their baths they get their plate of food.  So it appears to them that they are getting a reward for being good.  Soaking also helps to hydrate the iguana's skin and aides in shedding.  It can be very frustrating trying to socialize them, especially if it seems no matter what you do, your green friend wants to try to tail whip you or bite you.  Then one day, when you least expect it, the iguanas suddenly stops tail whipping, running and gaping at you.  All I can say is "hang in there" it will happen when the time is right.

Medical

It is recommended that after you have had your iguana for two week, to get a fecal test done to check for parasites and worms.  It is also a good idea to find a good herp vet in your area and also have a physical to make sure there are no other health issues.  Iguanas, like cats and dogs, need regular vet checkups.  Anything that you see out of the norm for your iguana should not be taken lightly.  Iguanas don't usually show they are sick until they are very sick.  Don't ignore the signs.

Male Seasonal Aggression and Female Egging

Male Seasonal Aggression is when your male is ready to mate, usually after they reach 8" snout to vent length,  they go into what is called season.  This usually lasts about three months but has been known to go a lot longer.  Your male may become restless, or display his maleness, he may become aggressive as to the point of lunging at you, attempting to bite or tail whip.  He may turn a bright orange and go off of food, or start "poop painting" his cage.  I recommend getting a young male neutered if he shows severe signs of aggression.  Waiting until he is older greatly reduces the chances that neutering him will curb any aggression.   See this for farther reading on this issue.

Female Egging is an issue all us owners of females must consider once our girls reach 10" snout to vent.  The signs  that your female is going to lay is first; they increase their appetites to ready their fat reserves that get them through the month or so that they are so full of eggs they can't eat.  Once your female becomes gravid, she will lose her appetite, start drinking lots of water, become restless and digging all over her cage.  You should prepare a nest box for her with a mixture of peat moss and sand moistened so that it forms a ball in your hand but not saturated.  The nest box can be a deep cat litter pan with a lid for iguanas that are 10-12" snout to vent.  For larger iguanas a rubbermaid container works well.  Just cut a hole in the lid and lay it on its side inside the habitat.  Make sure the mixtures stays moist so that when she digs, the dirt doesn't fall back into the hole.  If all goes well, your iguana should lay between 12-60 eggs depending on her size.  Once she has finished laying she will leave the nest box and collapse on her basking shelf, have fresh food ready for her and spoil her for a couple of days.  It is also a good idea to have her x-rayed to see if she passed all the eggs.  Make an appointment with your vet ASAP.

Should your iguana become listless or seemingly depressed get her to your vet ASAP, this could be a sign of egg binding and she could die.  For further reading click here.