Green Iguana Husbandry - Overview

 

By  Aminah Grefer

Iguanas are one of the most commonly sold reptile pets. Yet, very few live to their 15-20 year life expectancy.  Iguanas are not an easy pet to care for; they have special requirements in housing, heating and lighting, humidity and diet which most people buying the adorable little green lizard are unaware of. 

The tiny iglet that looked so cute and could easily fit in a 50 gallon aquarium, when you bought him,  will grow rapidly; a full grown lizard can be in excess of 5 feet long from snout to tail tip.

Iguanas are large and need large enclosures.  The minimum dimensions required for a full grown iguana enclosure are 6 feet high, 6 feet long and at least 3 feet wide.

Proper temperatures in the enclosure are also required since iguanas digest their food by heat.  Their basking area should be between 92º-96ºF.  Owners must monitor cage. temperatures to ensure their iguana has not only the correct basking temperature but a gradient range of temperatures within the enclosure.

Another requirement for maintaining a healthy iguana is UVB light.  The best source of UVB light is natural, unfiltered sunlight but due to weather conditions iguana owners may not be able to provide the iguana with sunlight, unfiltered by glass or plexi-glass.  The only recourse open to them is a UVB light positioned approximately a foot above the iguana and replaced at least every six months. This must be maintained for 12 hours a day. 

An important factor in raising a healthy iguana is diet.  Iiguanas are herbivores; the do not eat any animal protein.  While they will grow and look heathy when fed a diet of animal protein, you are reducing the iguanas life span dramatically.   There are two diets most experienced herbers follow: the MK diet or the IguanaDen diet.  With minor exceptions the diets are similar in that the both recommend greens such as collard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens be the bulk of the iguanas diet.  Other vegetables such as winter squash (acorn or butternut) and green beans are added to the greens for variety.  Fruits can be fed as a treat.

Socialization is another important element in green iguana husbandry.  Iguanas, even those born in captivity, are wild animals.  You must always be on guard that you are not bitten or whipped with the iguana's tail.  Despite the fact that iguana teeth are small and almost unnoticeable, they are razor sharp and able to bite through flesh and bone.  Owners must earn the trust of the iguana and even then should always be aware of their iguana's body language. 

When you first bring your new iguana home, leave the iguana alone except for feeding and cleaning the cage.  Occasionally, stop in front of the cage and talk to the iguana in a soft, low voice.  When you reach into the cage, for feeding and cleaning, insert your hand in the cage slowly constantly talking to the iguana is a low soft voice. 

Many people prefer to wear some kind of protection on their hands such as a gardening glove for a small iguana or heavy duty work gloves for a large iguana when they first start socializing their iguana.  Personally, I prefer not to wear gloves since there is that one to one contact one loses when wearing gloves.  Initially, just pick him up, talk to him until he has calmed down then return to his cage.  Gradually increase the time you hold him.  Make sure that while handling the iguana you are in a room that has been iguana proofed (doors and windows shut, spaces an iguana can hide in etc.)  Be on your guard.  Iguanas move fast the moment you let your guard down.

Remember, with proper care, you and your iguana can enjoy each other for years to come.

If you have questions, and you should, there are several places to find your answers.  The two most reliable websites on green iguana care are the IguanaDen (www.iguanaden.com) and Mellisa Kaplan's website (www.anapsid.org).