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Green Iguana Husbandry - Overview
By
Aminah
Grefer
Iguanas are one of the most commonly sold
reptile pets. Yet, very few live to their 15-20 year life expectancy.
Iguanas are not an easy pet to care for; they have special requirements in
housing, heating and lighting, humidity and diet which most people buying
the adorable little green lizard are unaware of.
The tiny iglet that looked so
cute and could easily fit in a 50 gallon aquarium, when you bought him,
will grow rapidly; a full grown lizard can be in excess of 5 feet long
from snout to tail tip.
Iguanas are large and need large
enclosures. The minimum dimensions required for a full grown iguana
enclosure are 6 feet high, 6 feet long and at least 3 feet wide.
Proper temperatures in the enclosure are
also required since iguanas digest their food by heat. Their basking
area should be between 92º-96ºF. Owners must monitor cage.
temperatures to ensure their iguana has not only the correct basking
temperature but a gradient range of temperatures within the enclosure.
Another requirement for maintaining a
healthy iguana is UVB light. The best source of UVB light is
natural, unfiltered sunlight but due to weather conditions iguana owners
may not be able to provide the iguana with sunlight, unfiltered by glass
or plexi-glass. The only recourse open to them is a UVB light
positioned approximately a foot above the iguana and replaced at least
every six months. This must be maintained for 12 hours a day.
An important factor in raising a healthy
iguana is diet. Iiguanas are herbivores; the do not eat any animal
protein. While they will grow and look heathy when fed a diet of
animal protein, you are reducing the iguanas life span dramatically.
There are two diets most experienced herbers follow: the MK diet or the
IguanaDen diet. With minor exceptions the diets are similar in that
the both recommend greens such as collard greens, turnip greens, dandelion
greens, mustard greens be the bulk of the iguanas diet. Other
vegetables such as winter squash (acorn or butternut) and green beans are
added to the greens for variety. Fruits can be fed as a treat.
Socialization is another important element
in green iguana husbandry. Iguanas, even those born in captivity,
are wild animals. You must always be on guard that you are not
bitten or whipped with the iguana's tail. Despite the fact that
iguana teeth are small and almost unnoticeable, they are razor sharp and
able to bite through flesh and bone. Owners must earn the trust of
the iguana and even then should always be aware of their iguana's body
language.
When you first bring your new iguana home,
leave the iguana alone except for feeding and cleaning the cage.
Occasionally, stop in front of the cage and talk to the iguana in a soft,
low voice. When you reach into the cage, for feeding and cleaning,
insert your hand in the cage slowly constantly talking to the iguana is a
low soft voice.
Many people prefer to wear some kind of
protection on their hands such as a gardening glove for a small iguana or
heavy duty work gloves for a large iguana when they first start
socializing their iguana. Personally, I prefer not to wear gloves
since there is that one to one contact one loses when wearing gloves.
Initially, just pick him up, talk to him until he has calmed down then
return to his cage. Gradually increase the time you hold him.
Make sure that while handling the iguana you are in a room that has been
iguana proofed (doors and windows shut, spaces an iguana can hide in etc.)
Be on your guard. Iguanas move fast the moment you let your guard
down.
Remember, with proper care, you and your
iguana can enjoy each other for years to come.
If you have questions, and you should,
there are several places to find your answers. The two most reliable
websites on green iguana care are the IguanaDen (www.iguanaden.com) and
Mellisa Kaplan's website (www.anapsid.org).
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